The town of Conwy is still
dominated by its 13th-century castle
North Wales in
long enough to sample a couple of castles, a very
small house, a very long place name, some of the best scenery in Britain,
and an astonishing 5000 years of history
Surprisingly, the train from Cardiff, in South Wales, to Conwy, in North
Wales, loops through England for much of the four-hour trip. At first North
Wales looks to be an endless row of caravans and chip shops squeezed along a
bleak shore, but my introduction to Conwy is promising. The train isnít
scheduled to stop until the next town, but the conductor arranges a halt
just for me. The platform is just inside the medieval city walls.
find a bed for the night at the Castle Hotel, a delightful former coach inn
on the cobbled main street and two minutesí walk from the quay.
Medieval city walls are one of my top travel fetishes, so I waste no time
exploring Conwyís. Built in 1285-87, Conwyís walls are 1.3km long with 22
towers and three gateways. The walls have been breached in only one place to
allow traffic through, and you can walk almost all the way around the
battlements. Itís free, itís fabulous, and I have the wall-top walkway
practically to myself.
As well as great views of the city and Conwy Bay, the height of the walls -
level with chimney tops and second-floor windows Ė means you get some
fascinating glimpses of everyday domestic life.
I also notice a peculiarly British phenomenon Ė at the first hint of
sunshine, young British men shed their shirts en masse and reveal blinding
white expanses of man-flesh.
city walls lead me to Conwy Castle, built by the English King Edward I in
1283-87 to show the Welsh who was boss. Up to 1500 workers at a time built
the castle at a cost of 15,000 pounds (about 45 million pounds in todayís
money); when it was finished King Ed had it whitewashed just to make sure no
one could miss the castle or its message.
While little remains inside the castle, every tower is intact and I resolve
to climb every last one. Whew.
catch a bus to nearby Llandudno, a classic Victorian seaside town with grand
buildings curving around a stony beach and kids up to their ankles in the
sea shrieking with cold.
take a charmingly old-fashioned tram up the Great Orme, a rounded limestone
headland at one end of Llandudno. Itís really a funicular railway rather
than a tram - as one carriage descends, its weight pulls another up the
hill. At the top I find all the cheesy attractions youíd expect at a British
holiday spot, but the view across the Irish Sea is magnificent.
I wander back down the Orme through a limestone landscape of sinkholes and
at the hotel for dinner: Conwy lamb parcel wrapped in Carmarthenshire ham.
After another wander around the walls, itís time for a pint of
Cardiff-brewed Brains Special Ale at a pub on the quay. Conwy could easily
be a trite tourist town, but the other folk enjoying the warm evening
outside are locals. The working fishing boats and stacks of lobster pots
also add authenticity.
If you ever find yourself in North Wales, itíd be a crime to miss Conwy.
I take a last look around Conwy and check out what claims to be Britainís
smallest house. At two storeys high and just two metres wide, its last
resident - a six-foot-three fisherman - had to sleep with his feet sticking
out a window, apparently.
bridge and cottage at Llanrwst, in the Vale of Conwy
9.30am: My guide, Dave
Wagstaff, picks me up from the hotel. It turns out Dave is not just a
walking encyclopedia of all things Welsh, but a keen hiker as well. It
promises to be a good few days.
We stop at the ruins of Dolwyddelan castle - Wales boasts more than 600
castles - and over the Crimea Pass into Snowdonia, home to the tallest
mountains in England and Wales. The moment we cross the pass the landscape
changes from lush green pasture to raw hills of bare, broken rock and vast
grey piles of slate left by centuries of mining.
We arrive in the surreal slate-mining town of Blaenau Ffestinog.
Itís in the middle of Snowdonia National Park but itís
also surrounded by mountains of mine waste, making an extraordinary,
With seconds to spare Dave gets me a seat on the Ffestinog narrow gauge
steam railway, built in 1836 to carry slate to the docks at Porthmadog, 20km
away. Soon Iím wrapped in the smell of coal smoke in a creaking, shuddering
carriage as the train trundles through beech forest and skirts valley slopes
high above a river.
If youíre a fan of unusual little trains, youíll think North Wales is
heaven. This railway was abandoned in 1946 but rebuilt by volunteers in the
Dave is waiting for me at Porthmadog for the short drive to Portmeirion.
This monstrous folly, Italianate fantasy village or refuge for endangered
buildings Ė depending on your point of view Ė has long been on my must-see
list, and it doesnít disappoint.
The brainchild of eccentric genius Clough Williams-Ellis, Portmeirion is a
private village of pastel houses, colonnades, bell towers and piazzas
perched on a wooded peninsula. It looks like itís warped in from Italy, and
I canít get enough of its quirky details and pretty vistas.
Itís ridiculously late to start a hike, but itís such a perfect afternoon we
decide to have a crack at Mt Snowdon. At 1085m, itís not high by New Zealand
standards Ė but it is the highest mountain in England and Wales and itís
We start walking at the Pen-y-Pass trailhead, following the Minerís Path in
the footsteps of copper miners a century ago. We pass the ruins of an ore
crushing mill and cross a tarn on a causeway built by miners, imagining how
tough it would be climbing a mountain every morning even before you start
We get to what looks like easy striking distance of the summit, but Dave
does a quick calculation and decides we need to turn back or weíll still be
walking in the dark. Iím gutted but vow to come back for another try.
After descending via the stonier, steeper Pig Track itís only a short drive
to the Pen-y-Gwrd Hotel, training base for the 1953 Everest expedition. Team
members Ė including our own Sir Edmund Hillary Ė honed their climbing
techniques on Mt Snowdon and, so the barman tells us, tested their oxygen
apparatus while clambering up stacks of chairs in the hotel dining room.
The hotel guests are tucking into dinner, giving us a chance to poke around
and sink a well-earned Snowdonia ale.
A display case in the "smoke room" is packed with memorabilia from the 1953
expedition, including the rope used to hitch Hillary and Tenzing together,
prayer flags and an oxygen tank. Another room has Sir Edís signature
scrawled on the ceiling.
Dinner in the upmarket hiking resort of Betws-y-Coed, and someoneís plucking
on a harp in the fancy dining room at the Royal Oak Hotel. Maybe we should
have changed out of our hiking clothes first...
Head off again with Dave, this time over the Llanberis Pass and into a broad
glacial valley, rising steeply on either side to rows of 1000m peaks.
gritty quarry town until the 1960s, Llanberis is now a busy
hiking village and the starting point for the mountain railway that grinds
all the way to top of Snowdon. Iím
amazed by the strength of
the Welsh language here Ė everyone, even the toughs hanging around on street
corners in hoodies, speaks Welsh first and English second.
Beneath a mountain cut by slate quarries into a series of giant steps, the
Welsh Slate museum looks as forbidding as a Victorian prison. Maybe thatís
because it was a slate factory modelled on forts in British India.
We latch onto a French school group and watch as a master slate splitter
shows how a few skilful taps with a chisel splits a chunk of rock into
perfect tiles. His humour is lost on the school kids, but not the heart he
chips out of slate for one of the girls.
Dave wants to show me an ancient corner of Anglesey Island, his stamping
ground in the northwestern corner of Wales. We cross the worldís first
suspension bridge Ė the 190m Menai Bridge, built in 1826 above a swiftly
flowing strait Ė and after a ten-minute walk through fields sprinkled with
sheep we find one of oldest traces of human settlement in Wales.
The 5000-year-old Bryn Celli Ddu was originally a Neolithic "henge", a stone
circle for religious rituals, later converted into a burial chamber. At the
summer solstice the sun lights up the inner chamber; cracks are jammed with
candle stubs, crystals and New Age offerings.
Britainís longest place name Ė which
translates as "St Maryís Church in the hollow of white hazel near a rapid
whirlpool and the church of St Tysilio near the red cave" Ė is a 19th
We arrive in Llanfairpwllgwngyllgogerychwyrndrobwll-llandysiliogogogoch. The
longest place name in Britain was fabricated in the 1880s in the hope of
attracting tourists; judging by the buses parked outside the information
centre, it worked a treat.
We leave, having visited all the villageís attractions.
Caernarfon isnít an especially attractive town, and it doesnít help that
half the centre is dug up and the waterfront is blighted by modern buildings
Ė but it does have another huge 13th century castle.
We tuck into an excellent lunch and a few ales at the Black Boy Inn, a pub
built in 1522, well before political correctness was invented. Inside itís a
warren of tiny rooms with blackened beams you have to duck under; we elect
to sit outside in glorious sunshine.
fight off a case of castle fatigue and explore
Caernarfon Castle Ė built, like Conwy, by Edward I. It
was the biggest castle in his "Iron Ring" of fortresses, a blatant show of
might that was never completed.
last stop on our tour of North Wales is the Llyn Peninsula Ė a stony, spooky
finger of land jutting into the Irish Sea, dotted with 6th century pilgrims'
churches. We climb a bare hill to Treír Ceiri (Town of the Giants) Ė a
fortress with the remains of 150 round stone huts encircled by a dry stone
wall that was once 4m high. The Celts started building the hilltop fort just
before the Roman invasion of 78AD, and it was abandoned three centuries
later. Itís a stiff 15 minute hike to the top, but the views of the
peninsulaís trio of bald, raw hills, the pretty villages below and the
island of Anglesea in the distance make it well worth the effort.
After all that walking and so many millennia of history to soak up, I need a
beer. A short drive and a beach walk later weíre at Porthdinllaen, a village
of at most a dozen whitewashed fishermenís cottages snuggled into a cliff
and accessible only on foot. In the middle of the village is the pub Ty Coch
(Red House), which has been voted the best place in Britain to have a beer.
Itís easy to see why; alas, the pub is closed.
Dave quizzes a fisherman who says the pub opens only when the owners feel
like it. A parched English couple, whoíve walked further than we have, are
fuming at the Welsh lack of business zeal. But quietly I applaud them: Whoíd
want to be indoors doing business on such a glorious afternoon?
First published in The Northern Advocate, 2008.
In 2008 I had the good
fortune to win a journalism fellowship sponsored
by the British High Commission and Air New Zealand.
The prize included a month-long stay in the Welsh capital, where I
sat in on classes of the international diploma in journalism at
Cardiff University, visited newsrooms, studied the Welsh language,
and poked around a few of the hundreds of castles that dot the Welsh
But the highlight was a few days exploring North Wales, thanks to
the good folk at Croeso Cymru/Visit Wales who sorted me out with
transport, accommodation and even a guide for a few days.
Conwy boasts the smallest house in
Britain, so narrow its last resident apparently had to sleep with his
feet sticking out a window
The towers of 13th-century
Conwy Castle overlook the bay of the same name
Grand Victorian buildings curve
around the Llandudno waterfront
historic tram trundles up the Great Orme, a limestone knob next to the
seaside town of Llandudno
Ffestinog narrow gauge steam railway was built to carry slate from the
mountains of Snowdonia to the docks
The fantasy village of
Portmeirion - a collection of buildings rescued from demolition by an
eccentric architect - looks like it has been plucked out of Italy
View of Portmeirion village
Guide Dave Wagstaff on the Minerís Trail with Mt Snowdon in the
distance, the highest peak in England and Wales
Master slate splitter Evan Thomas at the Welsh Slate Museum in Llanberis
Thirteenth-century Caernarfon Castle was the biggest in Edward Iís "Iron
Ring" of fortresses
The Celtic fort of Treír Ceiri (Town of Giants) crowns a rocky hill on
the Llyn Peninsula