Kukes  [Albania, 1999]
The northern border town of Kukes (usual population 30,000) hit world headlines in 1999 when it was the first stop for tens of thousands of ethnic Albanians fleeing Serb forces in Kosovo, swelling its population to an estimated 350,000. Two weeks after the refugees returned home, one of the town's main streets is deserted except for a few children. The 2000m high Mt Gjalica towers behind them.